Wandering Off Schedule In the Beautiful Country of Chile

I already know that what I’m about to say will make some ofyou roll your eyes. I know it’s what I say about a lot of the places I travelto, but this time I’m serious.

I think I’ve found my new favorite country.

Chile.

So pull out your maps, ladies and gentlemen, and trace yourfingers waaayyy south, the furthestsouth I’ve ever been and a part of the world you sometimes forget even exists.

Right now it’s the end of their summer and beginning offall, which happens to be my favorite time of year even back in the states. Sonaturally that means I had some of the best weather I’ve ever experienced on atrip, with morning temperatures chilly enough to need a light sweatshirt, andafternoon weather that’s filled with nothing but sunshine and blue sky – thetype of weather that kept me out until late at night, spending time on patiosof restaurants until long after dark, enjoying the warm breeze, finishingwhat’s coming to be a growing stack of books.

I was only supposed to be in the city for two days. After the first day I spent walking the streets of downtown, I almost laughed at myself because I knew there was no way I’d be spending any less than four or five.

I can sometimes get a little too attached to a schedule when I travel, and this trip I’ve really been making a conscious effort to let my itinerary breathe a little, allowing my plan to shift from day-to-day. I managed to stay in Santiago for five days when I had only planned for two. And the world didn’t end, my trip wasn’t ruined, and I didn’t come to regret it.

If anything, it's only made this trip one of the best ones yet.

After landing early in the morning that first day, deliriousfrom my red eye flight, I made my way to my hostel which was located in theabsolute perfect part of town. Placedjust off the main drag of town and away from the tourist traps, it was quiet,clean, and close enough to anything that you’d really ever want to do while inthe city.

I dropped my stuff off and set off for what I enjoy doingmost when I first get to any new city, which is walking around with no setdestination in mind and truly just exploring.

I quickly found that my preconceived ideas of the city were all completely, one hundred percent incorrect. And mainly that’s because I didn’t really know what to expect.

For one, the city is immaculate. It’s super well-developed,almost reminding me of Chicago. And there are more restaurants, bars, andcoffee shops than I thought possible, all hiding in little nooks, tucked intoalleyways lined with Spanish-styled homes. There were times I didn’t even knowwhere to start when picking a place to eat.

After walking around for a bit, I decided to hike Cerro San Cristobal hill, the highest point in the city that gives you a vantage point known for some of the more spectacular views of the entire city, nestled beneath the spine of the Andes Mountain range.

I had been prepared for a decent hike, but it was actually fairly strenuous. And while I would 10/10 recommend doing the same hike yourself, just know it’s not for the faint of heart. I had to stop several times for a breather, but the views at the top were completely worth it.

The next day I went on a free walking tour. Time and again, these really are one of my favorite excursions in a lot of the places I travel to. The guides are super knowledgeable, and instead of being paid a flat rate from each customer from the start, the tips you’re encouraged to give at the end of the tour only make them want to give an even better tour. Great tours = great tips. And not only that, but they’ll often suggest the best places to eat or hidden things to do that you’d never have found on your own. A rooftop bar that I visited after the tour was one recommended by the guide.

I also learned so much about Chile’s history. For instance, how they didn’t achieve a democratic government until 1990, having been under a military government from 1973 – 1990. Or how the U.S. government and CIA leading up to the time of a military coup in 1973 played an intrinsic role in helping to overthrow the socialist government which had ruled until then. During the coup, the presidential palace was literally bombed in an effort to force the president at the time – President Salvador Allende Gossens – to surrender. Giving one of the more famous speeches in Chilean history on public radio during the time of the bombing, he committed suicide inside the palace as bombs rained down around him.

I also learned that at one point, the Chilean government incentivized German citizens to come to the country, offering them a free trip over and even a free plot of land to live on. The idea of Germans being "the perfect race" was a primary factor in this. So now in the southern part of the country you’ll find huge numbers of German heritage Chilean citizens and architecture very similar to what you’d find in Germany.

I also learned of the earthquakes that Chile is so predisposed to, a massive tectonic plate running the majority of the country. The earthquake that happened in 2010 (which I had completely forgot about) actually didn’t destroy that much due to advances in the ways buildings were constructed and even despite it’s massive 8.8 magnitude. But what killed many people was the ensuing tsunami that occurred after.

Let’s also not forget the story of the Chilean miners afterthat earthquake who were trapped seven hundred meters underground for sixty-ninedays.

All the facts had me wondering why I’d never heard more of the country.

That night I went to a wine bar that was having a live jazznight. I showed up a little early and had a seat downstairs while the band gotready on the second level. The owners told me they’d let me know when the bandwas ready so I could head up.

About a half hour later, they led me upstairs to what looked to be an attic converted to a second bar and performance area. I was shown to a little corner table with a handwritten placard on it that said, “reservado.” They had known I was traveling by myself and hadn’t wanted me to miss the show by not having a seat, so they had reserved one for me.

Just another example of the kindness of people, no matterwhere you travel in this world.

The next day I met a guy who lived in the city who worked as a professional dancer, teaching and traveling the world with various companies. We got coffee that afternoon, spending a good amount of the afternoon hanging out with one another and walking around Lastarria, a really beautiful part of town. We had so much fun that he invited me to go out with he and some friends that evening to a couple of bars. Of course I couldn’t say no. The best way to see the city is the through the eyes of the locals. So we all met up later that evening and didn’t leave the last bar until around four in the morning, the party still raging, with no end in sight.

Chileans really know how to party.

So naturally, what I had anticipated being an early day thenext morning to get to my next destination of Valparaiso ended up being much later in the afternoon. But when Igot there, I wasn’t disappointed.

I took a bus from Santiago to Valparaiso, which took abouttwo hours. And for six dollars, not an expensive option, either.

Getting to the city later in the afternoon, I found that itwas actually a little chilly, dipping down into the mid-fifties. I had toremind myself that it was Chile’s autumn. It made for great walking weather,though.

Valparaiso certainly has a different vibe to it thanSantiago. For one, the buildings are much older than Santiago. The downtownarea almost reminded me a little of Hanoi, where the buildings were crammedtogether, power lines running in every direction, with people and street vendorspacked into the sidewalks, everyone trying to sell you something.

But as soon as I stepped off the main drag to the area of town my hostel was at, I really fell in love with the city. Valparaiso is known for its graffiti and wall art. I can see why. At every turn there was a new stretch of art to admire, a few more shops to go into and visit. The labyrinth of alleyways reminded me of the Netherlands, in that as soon as you were through one, there were another three left to explore at the end.

My hostel was really neat, as well. An old, traditionalcoastal home, there was no real rhyme or reason to the layout of the roomsinside, with staircases placed randomly and windows set at all heights in thewalls.

And while I walked around the town a little bit more the next morning, I didn’t do much else. To be completely honest, Santiago had worn me out and I was starting to feel it by that point. I went back to Santiago that night to avoid having to catch an early bus back to Santiago for my flight to Mendoza the next morning. I stayed with the friend I had made the day beforehand and ended up going out with he and his friends, again. They were so incredibly hospitable, always making sure I was comfortable, making me feel welcome, translating the Spanish being spoken around me so that I didn’t feel left out.

Spending a few nights with them, they were absolutely some of the nicest people I’ve ever met traveling. And they’re what made Chile one of the best places I’ve ever traveled to.

Because if there’s one thing I’ve learned in all my worldwide wanderings, it’s that you’ll oftentimes find greater beauty in the people you meet along the way, even when surrounded by countries that take your breath away.

But now I'm off to Mendoza, Argentina! I had been most looking forward to Argentina, being one of the reasons I placed it at the tail end of my trip. But now that I’ve experienced Chile, Argentina has some big shoes to fill.

Although if I must say, the vineyards of northern Argentinamay give it a run for its money.

Ciao.

What I’m CurrentlyReading:

Speak No Evil; Uzodinma Iweala

A very poignant book, especially in today’s political climate. It brings to light multiple social issues – the struggles the main character goes through working through his sexuality with his very traditional Nigerian family, and the issue of race and police violence that still seems to dog our country. Not a book for the faint of heart, but an important read, nonetheless.

Who I’m Listening to:

Paloma Mami, Rosalia, Jorja Smith

These were suggestions from my Chilean friends, and theyhaven’t disappointed. Still working through what the lyrics say in English, butanyone can jam out to them without knowing what’s being said.

What I’m Watching

“Amy Schumer, Growing”

She does it again with another hysterical standup routine. Always love a good Schumer special, and this was one of my favorites yet.